Having cruised Europe's ocean-side ports the Mediterranean, the Baltic, the British Isles I felt like I'd earned a good birds-eye view and a tremendous perspective. I'd spent days in London and Paris, Athens and Helsinki. I'd cruised enough so in some cases I was lucky enough to revisit enchanted places, like Edinburgh, Istanbul, Brugges, Lisbon and Seville.

But what I was missing and didn't realize how much was the rest of Europe! That's because cruise ships, by and large, stick to "same old, same old" coastal routes and yet, much of Europe's charm is a far distance from the logistical possibilities of a one-day stop at a port of call. That's because the rivers and canals that connect some of Europe's most fascinating cities Vienna, Amsterdam, Budapest, Lyon to name a few are too small for most cruise ships.

Still, they're not too small for a flotilla of specially designed river ships and cruise barges. As a niche of cruising, river and canal voyages are an increasingly popular option, particularly for travelers who enjoy the comforts and variety of cruising, but want to see more of the heartland.

River and canal cruising is not limited to Europe, either. Travelers can also sail America's Mississippi, Columbia, and Tennessee rivers. And one of the fastest growing destinations for river boats, in particular, is China's Yangtze.

Wherever you go, river cruising and canal cruising share some similarities. Mealtimes are a major focal point of the day. Each cruise features a variety of ports of call. Service waiters, cabin stewards is on a similar level. Here are some tips:

Onboard, river cruise ships which rarely hold more than 200-plus passengers (and generally carry less) feel, like smaller versions of cruise ships. Where they are limited is in onboard features and amenities, particularly in Europe where ships must be low-slung enough to sail under ancient (and low-lying) bridges.

Barges are even smaller: Expect between 6 and 50 passengers!

On some cruises (this applies particularly to some operators in Europe and China) you can expect to sail with a very international passenger mix.

River cruising in particular is in the midst of a major expansion boom. In the past two years (and this will continue) cruise lines have introduced new ships, and 2003 saw the intro of a brand new cruise line. Avalon Waterways, owned by the folks behind the Cosmos and Globus touring operation, have launched Avalon Artistry.

Itineraries may incorporate major cities as cornerstones, but your experience will focus more on smaller towns and villages than a greatest-hits list of sprawling urban metropolises.

One big difference between river cruising and ocean cruising: In the former, operators typically include shore excursions in the overall cruise fare (double check though, as policies may vary).

Days at sea are rare (and generally there's not much to see anyway, except for the occasional cityscape or village-with-cathedral).

Beyond mealtimes, entertainment onboard may be limited to shuffle-board or book-reading (we're serious). These ships carry no casinos and offer little in the way of evening entertainment (except perhaps a piano player).

And waterways are much calmer than those on ocean-based trips (great news for those prone to seasickness).

Finally, speaking of being onboard: While these vessels, from river ships to canal barges, are comfortable to be sure, you won't find the elaborate staterooms featured on cruising's mega-ships. In Europe, there are no balconies (some ships do feature French windows), few cabins have televisions or Internet connections, and bathrooms are small and functional.

River vs. Canal: What's the Difference?

Both offer a more intimate cruise experience. The primary difference is, of course, size. River cruise ships are the "mega ships" of this genre, but the concept of "mega" is relative. They offer more onboard features, and call at bigger towns and major cities. A barge cruise, with only a handful of passengers (and a much smaller vessel) can actually penetrate canals the most ancient of waterways in Europe, for instance, that are off-limits even to river ships. So you visit even more off-the-track villages and small towns.

Either way, expect a more laid-back experience, and a chance to get a better feel for a place. We promise you won't get lost in a crowd.

Trends in River Cruising

In Europe, the most established river cruising destination, the biggest trend is the continued evolution in ship design. While river cruising has been a mainstay of European waterways since the early 19th century when KD River Cruises (now owned by Viking River) began operating daytrips across major rivers it got its biggest boast in the 1980's. German-based ship operator Peter Deilmann saw that he could expand his cruise line by designing vessels that, despite size limitations, could compete with traditional cruise ships in terms of comfort and amenities. Several Deilmann ships, for instance, have swimming pools (which are typically not found on river vessels).

These days, ship design is focusing particularly on staterooms. While balconies are pretty much out of the question for those ships plying the more narrow (in some places) European rivers (one cruise line head did tell us they were exploring technology that would allow for retractable verandahs, but cost was prohibitive), French doors are a fashionable new touch. Newer ships are including more contemporary technology in staterooms such as televisions.

Traditional itineraries have typically focused on major rivers like the Rhine, Danube, and Main Rivers. The Danube is a super choice for first-timers; a typical voyage would sail through countries such as Austria, Hungary and Germany. The Rhine leads to Amsterdam, Cologne and Coblenz. France is increasingly popular, and most companies offer Lyon-based trips down the Rhone and Saone rivers, with highlights including the region of Provence and wine country.

Other rivers you can cruise include the Seine, Elbe, Po, Douro, Moselle and even the Volga. Indeed, easily the hottest itinerary these days is a "Journey of the Czars" sailing between Moscow and St. Petersburg Clipper and Viking River operate these exotic trips.

China is a very hot destination, appealing to both cruise line operators and passengers. Not only is the Yangtze a most-exotic trip for even well traveled cruise travelers, it also lacks limitations such as low bridges posed by Europe's rivers. So U.S.-based operators, such as Viking River and Victoria Cruises (both of which are building and designing ever-newer ships), are throwing in a lot of traditional cruise amenities cabins with balconies, Internet cafes and coffee bars.

The typical Yangtze River cruise is paired with a land-tour as well; expect to visit Beijing and Shanghai (and lots of little villages along the way). U.S.-based operators include Clipper, Viking River and Victoria Cruises.

The river cruising scene in the U.S.A. and Canada chugs along. Operators such as St. Lawrence Cruise Lines tend to traditionalize both itineraries and onboard environment. Itinerary options include the St. Lawrence Seaway (which straddles the Eastern U.S. and Canada) and heartland rivers like the Mississippi, Missouri and Tennessee. For the most part, these voyages are geared to an older, more sedentary traveler.

Canal Cruising: What's the Secret?

Canal cruising is limited to Europe, with one exception the U.S. based RiverBarge, which spends as much time in rivers as canals. The sheer intimacy of these trips (imagine being one of 6 - 12 passengers, sailing on a boat that moves so slowly you can hop off with a bicycle in one village, have a nice lunch and a pleasant ride, and rejoin the ship a few stops down the canal) is intriguing and tantalizing, particularly for those wanting to experience off-track parts of Europe even more than river cruising.

Typically, companies like French Country Waterways buy old barges and then rebuild them. Inside, these hotel barges offer all the comforts of home, and then some. (Do you have a private chef? You will on a barge.)

The Season

Unlike the traditional cruise industry, most river and canal ships operate seasonally during spring, summer and fall months with a hiatus during December, January and February. Some Asian operators will go year-round. Another fabulous exception is Christmas season in Europe, where several river cruise operators offer voyages that stop in towns and cities with Christmas markets. Latin America-based voyages are fairly limited though good for wintertime you might also find the Amazon listed as an option. Cruise West offers a Costa Rica trip.