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The latest addition to the fleet, M/S Midnatsol, was delivered in April 2003 and replaces the Mid-generation ship of the same name. It has the same capacity and facilities as its sister ship the M/S Trollfjord with large panorama lounges as well as cafés and bistros with plenty of light and wonderful views. The colour scheme reflects the ship's name which is Norwegian for Midnight Sun.

How many port calls in a one-week sailing qualifies a cruise as "port-intensive"? Six? Seven? Eight? How about 35 ports in seven days?! Improbable as that may seem, the vessel that sails this itinerary is the equally unlikely combination of a luxury cruise ship, a cargo ship, a car and passenger ferry, and an expedition vessel. Norwegian Coastal Voyages' newest build, the "Millennium Class" MS Midnatsol joins the line's fleet of 13 ships that together sail year-round up and down the west coast of Norway. Passengers may book the seven-night northbound trip from Bergen to Kirkenes, located hundreds of miles north of the Arctic Circle, or the six-night southbound sailing, which reaches the same ports. However, since ports called at during daylight hours on northbound sailings are reached at night on the return -- and vice versa -- many passengers choose to combine north- and southbound itineraries into a 12-night round trip, with different shore experiences offered each way.

In addition to traditional cruisers, many passengers -- mostly Europeans -- use the NCV ships as point-to-point transportation along the Norwegian coast, including up to 50 who travel with their automobiles. The result is a continually changing passenger makeup. One day on our sailing, for a few hours the normally mature ambience of the ship was strikingly enlivened when a group of preteen Norwegian backpackers boarded. Four hours later, at the next port, they were gone, and the atmosphere changed yet again.

NCV ships also carry cargo, calling at villages large and small, docking only as long as necessary to load and offload passengers and cargo, sometimes in as little as 15 minutes. And, unlike the long, drawn out docking procedure we're used to on conventional ships, the Midnatsol zips in and out of port in a flash, aided by triple bow thrusters and a state-of-the-art pod.

Though many port calls are short, extended shore excursions are possible; passengers merely rejoin the ship at a port further along the route. Midnatsol's small size and maneuverability also allow it to explore narrow and out-of-the-way fjords that the big ships simply can't enter. To make the experience even more expedition-like, the cruise director describes natural and cultural aspects along the way over the ship's PA system.

Bottom line: Midnatsol is a ship for the self-entertaining seasoned traveler who wishes to get a really close look at the fjords and communities along Norway's coast, is comfortable traveling with a passenger load that is mostly European (Americans number about 10 - 12 percent), and whose cruise experience is not diminished by the absence of many of the usual trappings of life at sea: entertainment, casino gaming, bingo, etc. Norwegian Coastal Voyages caters to the same clientele for the Norwegian fjords that would choose Cruise West or Society Expeditions over the "majors" for cruising Alaska.

Service onboard is efficient and extremely friendly, but without the fussy, almost obsequious attention often equated with cruising.

Public rooms

Midnatsol means "midnight sun," and the ship's decor beautifully embodies this theme. Even staircase landings are tiled in polished marble inlaid sunbursts. Oranges, reds, browns and yellows predominate throughout the ship. From the moment you enter the five-deck atrium, dominated by a stunning 49-ft. painting in "midnight sun colors," you are struck with the warmth and brightness of the interior design. I was also delighted at the large collection of original Norwegian artwork, extremely extensive for a ship this small; it took a couple of days to take it all in. The major public decks are Deck 5 and Deck 8. Deck 5 is dining central, with the main restaurant all the way aft and a 24-hour cafe midship. Deck 5 is also the location of the ship's small gift shop.

Midnatsol has two bars, but one of them is only open during the warmest summer months. The main -- and for most of the year, the one and only -- bar, and its comfy little lounge, are located midship, just forward of the library and Internet cafe and aft of the two-deck observation lounge.

Critic's Caveat #2: Norway heavily taxes alcoholic beverages, so be prepared for a bad case of liquor sticker shock. Wine, beer and mixed drinks go for between $7.50 and $10 a pop (at current exchange rates), and though wine and the excellent Norwegian beers are ample pours, Norwegian law forbids pouring more than 40 ml of hard liquor in a glass. (By comparison, an airline bottle of alcohol contains 50 ml.) The good news is that Norwegian Coastal Voyages allows passengers to bring their own alcohol aboard to enjoy in their cabins.

Fitness and Reacreation

Midnatsol has no pool. In its place a large sun deck functions, weather permitting, as a platform for passengers to recline in lounges to watch the drama of the fjords and islands parading by. There is a sauna and small gym, and many passengers can be found early in the morning circling the ship on Deck 6 at speeds ranging from hare to tortoise to snail.

A number of shore excursions are offered, catering to four languages: Norwegian, English, German and French.

Entertainment

NCV aptly states that aboard their ships Mother Nature provides the entertainment. On our sailing there was a lone pianist in the Deck 8 lounge, but the presence of a musician or combo onboard is not 100 percent certain. During shoulder seasons (January - March, October - December), naturalists and historians come aboard to make presentations on subjects ranging from the Northern Lights to Norwegian Christmas traditions.

Family

These cruises are not recommended for children. There is a tiny play area, limited essentially to a couple of small structures and wall-mounted, kid-friendly video presentations.

Fellow passengers

These cruises are not recommended for children. There is a tiny play area, limited essentially to a couple of small structures and wall-mounted, kid-friendly video presentations.

Dress

Very casual. Midnatsol even smiles on jeans at dinner.

Gratuities

No, no, no ... absolutely no tipping onboard.

Special savings

Ship amenities