The three-deck grand atrium stars a 30-foot-high glass sculpture, "Totem," by Italian artist Luciano Vistosi. Bars and lounges are all classy. The two-deck-high Rembrandt Lounge, seating 600 in two nightly shows, is a stunner. The decor features luxurious mahogany wood and Delft-tile designs, except for the glaringly glitzy stage curtain. The lower level, like her sister ships, provides individual upholstered chairs and sofas, offering a welcome flexibility not available on ships whose showrooms feature fixed row seating. This is also the scene of enrichment lectures, as well as Snowball Cash Bingo.

The modern Crow's Nest on Sport's Deck gleams with wondrous views through its walls of windows, the spot for ocean viewing by day and especially glamorous when the ship departs in the evening hours, such as at St. Thomas where the lights twinkle up the hills. Cocktail hours lure passengers for a drink and hot hors d'oeuvres. They're also served at the Ocean Bar, a small but popular spot where a quartet plays familiar dance music. The crowd thins out after dinner.

Cognacs, designer coffees and fresh chocolates, accompanied by The Champagne Strings, are served in the Explorers Lounge from 9 p.m. to midnight, while cigars are on tap in the Dolphin Bar. The Maasdam has a cozy Leyden Library where reference and travel books line the shelves; the contiguous card room accommodates 48 players at a time. The Java Cafe, outside the Wajang Theater where recent movies are shown, is underutilized. Fresh popcorn is served here at movie times. The ship lacks a central lounge conducive to large gatherings, such as the Captain's cocktail parties, which is held in the Rembrandt Lounge. Gorgeous fresh flower arrangements dot the public areas. Four self-service laundry rooms are located throughout the ship.

Entertainment

Production numbers are superb, particularly "Romance on Broadway," but other entertainment is sometimes hokey. Younger passengers find a DJ in charge of the Crow's Nest on many nights; other nights host Karaoke, Irish Pub Night, 50s/60s Night and other themes. The casino offers 6 blackjack tables (plus specialty tables), roulette, dice and 97 slot machines.

Fitness and Recreation

The Maasdam appeals to every age group with its recreational features. The spa and gym are located at the top the ship with a fabulous forward view. Equipment has been expanded; for instance, the number of treadmills has been doubled. The aerobics room is large and the sauna/steam rooms are outstanding. A personal trainer is available as one of the various spa options. Two tennis courts (watch the sides when getting those alley balls) are located outside on the top deck where basketball may also be played. You will also find a short jogging track (10 laps equal one mile) isolated from cabins and other activities; the Lower Promenade Deck track is longer, with four laps equaling one mile.

The pool choices repeat HAL's formula of appealing to all tastes in all weather: Swim in either of two pools or laze in any of three nearby whirlpools under the retractable dome on Lido Deck.

The video library boasts some 500 selections--claimed at the Front Office -- for those in cabins with VCRs. Days at sea are complimented by the usual range of activities but sometimes nothing beats a nap on a wooden deck chair on the Lower Promenade deck. A thoughtful touch: Narrow awnings stretch above the rail on the Promenade Deck so passengers viewing such sights as the Panama Canal transit are not subjected to the brutal sun's rays.

Activities

For rejuvenation thru exercise, Holland America's Maasdam cruise ship spa offer fitness classes to help you achieve optimum health and vitality. Yoga, Pilates, spinning, aquarobics and cardio Ki-Bo circuit training are available for students of all levels. Take advantage of treadmills, stationary bikes, stairsteppers, rowing machines, weights and weight machines. And while you're working out, refresh your soul with soothing panoramic views of the ocean.

• 2 Outdoor swimming pools (one with a sliding glass roof)
• Health spa, includes massage, sauna and steam treatments
• Duty free shops
• Library
• Beauty parlor
• Deck sports
• Big Apple children's game room. A great place for guests 5 through 17 to gather. A full time youth coordinator is on duty throughout the cruise to supervise activities for all ages
• Ocean Spa fitness center equipped with Stairmasters, treadmills, bicycles and free weights. Aerobic classes are also available
• Whirpool

Family

They're in effect when youngsters are booked, but not in a dedicated space. Supervised activities take place poolside, with arts and crafts in the Hudson Lounge amid no specific facilities other than tables and chairs. The line offers tailor-made children-only shore excursions, such as kayaking, in the Caribbean. These special excursion depend on the number and ages of booked children. We have heard that the children's program will soon be expanded.

Fellow passengers

45+ Americans seeking a classic cruising experience.

Dress

Casual by day, Maasdam includes two formal nights per week (dark suit or tux, although I spotted many men wearing sports jackets on the third formal night of my 10-day cruise.

Gratuity

For years and years, Holland America Line distinguished itself with its "no tipping required" policy, the objective of which was to prove that the cheerful and accommodating staff worked for the love of serving their guests, not for tips. Unfortunately, many passengers took this to mean "tips are included," or "tipping not allowed," so as Holland America hopes to attract a more diverse clientele and more first-time cruisers, the tipping policy has been specifically addressed.

According to a statement from Holland America president Stein Kruse, the tipping policy fleetwide is as follows:

"For your convenience, a gratuity of $10 per guest per day, for dining and stateroom service, will be automatically posted to your shipboard account. We are confident you will find the service on board exemplary and, should you wish to make adjustments, you may do so at the end of the cruise by visiting the Front Office. Also, a 15 percent service charge will be automatically added to your bar and beverage purchases."