The introduction of Cunard's now infamous Queen Mary 2 in 2004 was a watershed for the venerable Queen Elizabeth 2, the line's former flagship.

For the past 30-plus years, QE2 reigned as the "grande dame" of the seas and like anything at the top, she has had her highs and lows. Since she entered service, 10 times more money has been spent on refurbishing and refitting the ship (and installing new engines) than what it cost to build. The QE2 has sailed over five million nautical miles and has carried more than two million passengers on more than 1,200 voyages since her inaugural in 1969.

But just six months into new flagship QM2's run, QE2 received a new assignment. The ship surrendered its regular series of Atlantic crossings to QM2, and began its new life based in Southampton, marketed primarily to United Kingdom residents. Still, there were more honors to celebrate: 2004 marked QE2's 35th birthday, making it the longest commissioned ship in the history of Cunard Line.

Queen Elizabeth 2 is best compared to a small resort city, divided in suburbs. This is more evident on lengthy voyages, like world cruises (though less evident on trans-Atlantic crossings). On world cruises, repeat passengers, also referred to as permanent residents, are the groupies: Indeed, one passenger gained international fame after she sold her home and booked a year-round cabin an inside on the ship, only departing during scheduled dry-docks.

One of the most intriguing and challenging aspects of QE2 is that the ship was originally built as a two-class liner though has been one-class for several years. However, you can experience subtle class distinctions. Your choice of cabin determines the restaurant to which you are assigned, ranging from the mass-market-like main dining room to the more exclusive Princess Grill or Queen's Grill.

QE2 has a top speed of 32 knots and a regular cruising speed of 28 knots, which makes it the fastest passenger vessel afloat. As a liner, she provides port-to-port transportation, albeit in style that closely resembles what we have come to know as "cruising." She also looks different. The ship has a sleek, classic profile, and a deep draft that makes for a smooth ride but requires tendering in many ports. It must be said that, as a cruise vessel, QE2 doesn't have all of the amenities to rival newer luxury vessels. And yet, it is splendidly engineered for bad weather with the ability to plough through even the worst storms.

The vessel does, however, have some features unique to liners. Her size and configuration allow for the largest and most extensive library at sea, a hospital staffed by two doctors and four nurses, a dental clinic supervised by a licensed dentist, a podiatrist in the spa, one of the largest dance floors and ballrooms at sea, one of the highest space ratios at sea, and entertainment choices that require an additional 12 hours a day to get around to almost all of the venues.

Public rooms

QE2 underwent an extensive refurbishment a few years ago and the ship's public rooms look much refreshed (though some still feel a bit on the shabby-chic side).

One obvious change: The once quite elegant Royal Promenade, which housed upscale shops like Burberry, H. Stern and Aquascutum, has now been replaced by a more typical array of cruise ship boutiques stores where you can buy fragrances, watches and logo items.

Another sad transition is that QE2's pet kennels are gone; the space is now used for storage.

A more positive contemporary addition is the expansion of the Computer Learning Center; it's now got eight Internet-accessible stations. Purser's Square has been modernized and all of the ship's business is conducted in one area. Probably the most famous room onboard is The Queen's Room, which received major treatment during the renovation. New carpeting, plush blue and gold velvet upholstery, royal blue carpeting interwoven with gold Tudor roses are reminiscent of the Victorian era. Walls were redone in rich fabrics and woods, and the famed bronze bust of Her Majesty, the Queen, was relocated to the most prominent position in the major social venue that bears her name.

The Grand Lounge, which is the main entertainment venue, has been enhanced with a theatre-style balustrade and a new audio system, but there was no way to change the shopping arcade look into a showroom atmosphere.

The corridors on lower decks (4 and 5) and stairwells were re-carpeted and decorated in keeping with the rest of the ship. The ship has a magnificent library and marine bookstore; aside from that found on QM2, it's the best at sea. The Queen's Room once boasted the largest dance floor at sea (that honor now belongs to QM2 as well).

Entertainment

Here, QE2 excels. There were enrichment lectures on ships, the Concorde, the royal family, advertising and the port of New York. There was a cooking demonstration, and bridge lectures and games. There were arts and crafts, computer classes and dance workshops. There were organized games like quoits, shuffleboard, ping pong and baggo. In nice weather there was racquet ball, golf putting and basketball. There were trivia contests and affinity get-togethers, art auctions, Bingo, horse racing, and casino contests. A classical trio, harpist, pianist, several dance combos and Caribbean steel band provided additional diversions.

Evening entertainment was professional and worthwhile with the best dancers I have ever seen on a ship. There were also a juggler and a comic singer, both of whom were deft and entertaining.

One challenge onboard QE2: Unlike cruise ships, there's no organized method of introducing passengers to each other. The only way you meet is in dining rooms, dance classes or over bridge tables. If you are the reticent type who doesn't work a room at major cocktail parties, there's a good chance you'll never meet anyone other than your tablemates, Even that doesn't always work, because all of the dining rooms offer tables for two. It is surprising to notice the number of single passengers who prefer dining alone.

Fitness and Recreation

The ship has the usual outdoor options: pools, hot tubs and a sun deck. Cruisers who are used to new ships' spa and fitness "palaces" will, however, be disappointed with those found on this ship as they simply do not compare.

The gymnasium has basic equipment. The spa, run by Steiner, is attractive, but it's windowless. It has a thalassotherapy pool, and treatments include massage, Ionithermie treatments, hot stones therapy and reflexology. Passengers have free use of the saunas (two, segregated by sex) and a mixed steam room.

Family

Here I was truly disappointed. The nursery is a dark, second-class space high up in the ship. It has some excellent equipment but, not brightly lighted, the overall impression is depressing. Activities are varied and keyed to the number and age of children onboard, and may include arts and crafts, games, sports, hunts, theme days, challenge nights, talent shows, and the like. Children are divided into age groups: 1 - 3, 4 - 6, 7 - 12 and 13 - 16.

In addition to the nursery there is a small video parlor called Club 2000 on Quarter Deck and a Chill Out Room on Upper Deck. There were 40 children on my crossing, and they were never apparent, occupied as they must have been with organized activities. (For the succeeding Christmas cruise, however, the line was expecting between 250 and 300 children with no increase in staff!) At 10 p.m. organized activities end, and children are returned to their parents; there are no supervised activities at meal times.

Fellow passengers

On my Atlantic crossing a third were American, another third were British and the rest divided among 20 nationalities.

Dress

QE2 remains a dressy ship, perhaps the dressiest at sea. On my six-night crossing, four (in a row) were black tie. During the day, casual clothing is acceptable in all the ship's venues. After 6 p.m., however, the QE2 has a dress code. All the restaurants adhere to the formal/informal guidelines except the Lido, where smart casual is always acceptable.

Gratuity

Cunard charges $11 per day to the accounts of passengers occupying Mauretania and Caronia cabins and $13 per day to the accounts of passengers occupying Grill cabins. Theoretically, this would take care of cabin and restaurant stewards. Passengers are able to lower or raise the amount charged to their account by visiting the Purser's Office.