The 1,080-passenger Crystal Serenity is the Crystal Cruises' first new ship in eight years. And, except for the difference in size, it's similar to Crystal's other ships the 940-passenger Harmony and Symphony (68,000 tons compared to 51,044 on the Symphony and 49,400 on the Harmony). Like the others, it features excellent cuisine and polished service that sets the standard in the luxury market. The one negative: a standard balcony cabin on the Serenity is 269 square feet compared to the standard balcony cabin on Radisson's new Voyager, which is 356 square feet.

So how do those extra 150 passengers (and 7,000 tons, give or take a few) change your experience? Even though Crystal Serenity is 36 percent larger than the line's earlier ship, it only carries 12 percent more passengers, so the Serenity still feels cozy. (The Serenity's space ratio is 63 compared to 53.3 on the Serenity and 53.3 on the Harmony.) And because many of the features and public spaces are similar, and similarly sized, you won't feel like you've traded in Crystal-style intimacy for something larger.

In fact, all of the changes are undoubtedly improvements. From Nobu Matsuhisu's dishes in the Asian restaurant and the low-key Tastes restaurant up on deck, to in-cabin DVD players and sophisticated video game systems in the kid's lounge, it's the same Crystal that's garnered accolades all these years only better.

Public rooms

Old favorites like the Avenue Saloon and the Hollywood Theater, with its second-run films, look just the same. There's a card room for bridge players, a smallish library with DVDs and CDs for passengers to borrow, and an instructional lounge called "The Studio," where you can learn how to play piano on one of their Yamaha keyboards (the only facility of its kind at-sea). There are also the requisite jewelry and clothing shops.

"Computers@Sea" - is both an instructional center and Internet cafe. But consider yourself warned: Internet access is charged, not per minute as on most ships, but by megabytes uploaded-plus a start-up fee of $5 per usage. If you surf the web, rather than just type e-mails, you can expect charges of approximately $5 every couple of minutes. It's frustrating to watch the meter on the screen constantly increasing. If you can help it, skip it altogether and check your e-mail in ports.

Activities

Aboard Crystal's Serenity, you'll find a wide array of activity options. Whether your preference includes the ultimate relaxation, keeping up with or starting a new fitness routine, or basking in the 3,000 square feet of the Stars shopping arcade.

• Crystal Plaza
• Atrium
• Apropos Fasion Apparel
• Photo Shop & Photo Gallery
• Connoisseur Club
• Facets Jewelry & Gifts
• Captain's Choice Souvenirs & Sundries
• The Studio
• Library
• Bridge Lounge
• Waves Fantasia
• Seahourse Pool & 2 Jacuzzis
• Neptune Pool & Jaccuzi
• Crystal Salon
• Crystal Spa
• Fitness Center

While Crystal Serenity offers all the usual port talks and lectures, what's really special here is the nightlife. Unlike on the newer Radisson Seven Seas and Silversea ships, there is an energy onboard at night. This is an exclusive resort at sea, and you can feel that in the cigar bar and the mahogany-paneled Avenue Saloon piano bar where people are getting to know each other and toss back good Scotch. The casino is crowded with Poker and Blackjack players (rather than the Slot machine hopefuls) and it's only the Pulse Disco that seems empty night after night.

Fitness and Recreation

The pool deck is, as always, the place to be on sea days-when the whole ship turns out, and yet there are still plenty of teak lounge chairs left in prime spaces. The ship has two pools: the Seahorse pool, which is open-air and surrounded with lounge chairs, and the Neptune Pool, which is in the same atrium as Tastes and the Grill. The Neptune Pool is smaller, and usually empty-probably because people are usually eating in the area.

On the top deck, you'll find the nice (but typical and not overly large) fitness center, a Zen-themed Steiner spa and salon, and two impressive "Wimbledon" paddle tennis courts. The gym offers classes, such as yoga (free of charge), but the courts seem to be the highlight of the fitness offerings.

Family

Crystal ships, like those of the other luxury lines, carry far fewer children than the mega ships. (The code word here is "mature" cruisers.) Still, the children's program has been updated on the Serenity. There are two playrooms. "Fantasia" accommodates children ages 3 to 7 with toys and Play Doh and planned activities such as diving for pennies in the pool. "Waves" hosts kids age 8 to 17 with plenty of Sony Playstations.

Kids can also go on special tours, such as a back-stage visit to the dressing rooms and a galley tour where kids can decorate their own pastries. The ship also offers onboard babysitting services, with advance reservations, which start at $7.50 per hour for one child, $10 per hour for two, and $12.50 per hour for three.

Fellow passengers

Passengers are primarily Americans, and largely fall within the empty nester and retiree categories, though there are a good number of 30- and 40- something couples. Expect plenty of extended families traveling together which means there will be some children and teens, especially in the summer and on school holidays. On my cruise, there were a couple of large groups, including an alumni-association trip from West Virginia University. (The ship even flew the school's flag.) While passengers seemed to be impressed with Crystal Serenity, many were repeat cruisers who knew what to expect.

Dress

On formal evenings, it's black tie all the way. Some women wear cocktail-length dresses, but most opt for chic, full-length gowns (expect to see plenty of Judith Leiber jewel-encrusted purses, too). Almost all men wear tuxedos this is a group that owns their own, naturally. On informal evenings, men choose suits and women opt for dresses or dressy pants. But on casual nights, they do lose the ties and unbutton that top button. It's not a stuffy crowd.

Gratuity

Crystal's guidelines suggest tipping per passenger per day-$4 for cabin stewards, $4 for butlers, $4 for waiters, and $2 for assistant waiters. They'll charge it to your onboard account if you'd like, which saves passengers from running to an ATM in the last port or carrying a lot of cash on the cruise. And if you do charge your tips, the ship offers printed vouchers to hand to each crew member so that you can still thank them.