The monumental 29.5-foot Astrolabe clock tower dominates the three-level, oval-shaped, atrium at the heart of the vessel - it is a fanciful and poetic astronomical timepiece with one clock synchronized with the ship's clock, a world time clock and a carillon. Interiors - in rich colors with lots of warm paneling - are graced by a $2 million art and antiques collection including the Four Seasons sculptures originally created for the Nieuw Amsterdam of 1938 that now are displayed near the Crow's Nest Lounge; Ming Dynasty guardian statues in the Art Gallery; and bronzes of bears by British sculptor Susanna Holt by the pool. Not to mention the grand vases of fresh flowers throughout the public rooms that typically adorn HAL ships. A popular hub for an after-dinner drink is the Ocean Bar with music from a duo, just steps from the show lounge; and the Explorer's Lounge, with a mural-size painting themed to 17th century Amsterdam. Other popular spots are the ocean view Erasmus library, the Puzzle Corner and the Java Cafe adjacent to the Internet C@fe with seven individual stations (basic charge is 75 cents a minute). There are four self-service launderettes (a wash and dry cost $2 including detergent) featuring ironing board/iron and folding table. Three staircases, like on the Rotterdam, save steps: guests are never farther than 130 feet from the stairs.

Entertainment

The 557-seat Queen's Lounge, elegantly decorated in purple and red with blue accents, is the main show venue for Broadway-style revues and variety. It has a revolving stage with hydraulic lifts, a confetti cannon effect system and a moving light system. Colossal figures of women hold glass bowls (that serve as lamps) above their heads and fiber optic lights twinkle in the ceiling. Seating is in the form of banquettes and chairs and sightlines are excellent. Evening entertainment is quite varied, ranging from pianists playing Broadway show tunes to instrumental ensembles in the ships bars, such as the Crow's Nest, Rembrandt Lounge, Ocean Bar and Explorer's Lounge. The 217-seat Wajang Theater is the venue for a rather tired collection of films, most of which are available at passengers' neighborhood video stores. The Casino features tables for blackjack, poker, roulette and dice plus 107 slots.

Fitness and Recreation

The Ocean Spa incorporates treatment rooms for massage, sauna and steam, beauty salon and juice bar. Its ocean-view gym offers 11 Cybex treadmills, six Cybex bikes (2 recumbent), a dozen Cybex weight-training machines, two Concept II rowers, three Cybex stair climbers and free weights. There is an outdoor pool and a magrodome-covered pool with two Jacuzzis, bar and terrace grill. A jogging track on Sports Deck (10 times around equal one mile) is complemented by a wrap-around promenade for strollers (3.5 times around is one mile). Other opportunities for recreation include paddle tennis courts, volleyball, shuffleboard and ping-pong.

Activities

Choose the blissful pampering of a facial. Let the trained fingers of a massage therapist sooth your muscles while working fragrant oils into your skin. Enjoy therapeutic water treatments as you steam in a thermal suite or bathe in exotic herbs. All this while cruising to exotic destinations and enjoying other Holland America's Amsterdam onboard experience indulgences.

• Swimming
• Health Spa
• Shopping in duty-free shops
• Library
• Beauty Salon
• Practice Tennis Courts
• Meeting room

Family

Young sailors have a playroom, The Skyroom, and a video game arcade. Club HAL is the line's program of supervised activities for guests 5 through 17. Activities include storytelling, crafts and candy bar bingo for the younger children; putt-putt golf, pool parties and video games for pre-teens; and movies, pizza and disco parties for teens. A children's menu includes burgers, hotdogs, and chicken dippers. Babysitting is available while the ship is at sea. Fee is $8 an hour for the first child, $5 for each subsequent child in the same family. Make arrangements through the Front Office 24 hours in advance.

Fellow passengers

With itineraries featuring 10-day and longer sailings, the average age of guests is expected to be in the low 60s. Generally, they are well traveled.

Dress

There are three formal nights on 10-day sailings when the dress code calls for business suits or tuxedos for men (about half don tuxes) and cocktail dresses or gowns for women. Two nights are informal, when jackets are required for men and ties are optional. Five evenings are designated "casually elegant" when comfortable clothes are the rule, but HAL requests no jeans, T-shirts or shorts in the dining room.

Gratuity

For years and years, Holland America Line distinguished itself with its "no tipping required" policy, the objective of which was to prove that the cheerful and accommodating staff worked for the love of serving their guests, not for tips. Unfortunately, many passengers took this to mean "tips are included," or "tipping not allowed," so as Holland America hopes to attract a more diverse clientele and more first-time cruisers, the tipping policy has been specifically addressed.

According to a statement from Holland America president Stein Kruse, the tipping policy fleetwide is as follows:

"For your convenience, a gratuity of $10 per guest per day, for dining and stateroom service, will be automatically posted to your shipboard account. We are confident you will find the service on board exemplary and, should you wish to make adjustments, you may do so at the end of the cruise by visiting the Front Office. Also, a 15 percent service charge will be automatically added to your bar and beverage purchases."