In the mid-1990's, Disney experimented with booking cruises on what was known as The Big Red Boat, a modest and older cruise liner in the now-defunct Premier Cruises fleet. The experiment was such a success that the company commissioned two ships to be built to exacting Disney standards, with the most modern technology inside and the sleek classical lines of earlier ocean-going ships on the outside. These "modern classics" are long and low, with two red stacks (only one of which is necessary), a black hull, a unique pointed stern, and "Mickey yellow" designs, piping and even lifeboats. (Trivia tidbit: Special permission had to be sought from governing authorities, including the U.S. Coast Guard, to be able to change the standard orange of the lifeboats to the yellow that is used.) Disney Magic, launched in 1998, was the first of these vessels to be delivered. Disney Wonder debuted a year later.

There was a certain amount of risk in designing and building these two large premium-quality ships. Would they appeal to families, including the adults who make the purchasing decisions? Would they offer enough activities to cater to all age groups? Could they attract cruisers without children? In essence, could they satisfy a wide-enough range of cruise travelers?

After some early faltering, particularly with adult-oriented activities, and some tweaking (for example, adding bingo; opening Palo, the adult-only fine dining restaurant, for a lavish champagne brunch on several days; and creating Cafe Cove, the adults-only coffeehouse with books, newspapers, magazines and a small Internet center) Disney Magic has evolved into a classic, elegant cruise ship with universal appeal.

Disney Magic's Art Deco design elements are evident in all of her public spaces, which are for the most part refined and understated. There are a few Disney-themed venues that are appropriately colorful and exuberant, but most of the ship's appeal lies in the fact that it is truly designed for everyone, not just the Disney fanatic and not just for kids.

On this trip I traveled with my nearly-12-year-old niece. I worried that she might be too old for the Disney characters, and that she might pooh-pooh the events surrounding Mickey Mouse, Goofy and the others, but I needn't have been concerned. Her age provided the perfect combination of wide-eyed wonder and pre-teen sophistication ... one minute commenting on the perfect blend of seasonings in her penne pasta (accurately pronouncing it "penneh") and the next chasing down an oversized costumed chipmunk Chip or Dale, I'm not sure which for an autograph. And when my niece proclaimed something "cool," I could take it to the bank; it was indeed "cool." In all, this ship is a study in contrasts, blending elegant sophistication on the one hand and joyous, Disney-fied abandon on the other, ultimately merging perfectly into a wonderful whole. I was struck, too, by a couple of luxurious touches (comfortable heavy metal and mesh cloth balcony furniture, a mini-suite-like standard stateroom) and some surprisingly tacky ones (the 24-hour coffee station only has Styrofoam cups, and butter isn't served at any meal you get a margarine blend called "butterine").

Magic alternates seven-night Eastern and Western Caribbean itineraries, but in May, 2005, she will move to the West Coast for 12 weeks, offering seven-night Mexican Riviera cruises from Los Angeles to celebrate the 50th birthday of Disneyland.

Public rooms

Disney put a great deal of thought into the design of its public spaces, some of which are astonishing in their outwardly appearing simplicity and behind-the-scenes complexity. The Walt Disney Theater, for example, is large enough to hold half of the ships' guests, offers fantastic line of sight with no posts or pillars, and seems to have a two-deck-high stage. What is unseen is that the stage area actually encompasses many decks, from its mechanics underneath to the top where the people-flying wires, drop-down scenery and intricate lighting systems are hidden. It's sophisticated enough for the most comprehensive Broadway musical or Las Vegas-style review, but what the guest sees is a lovely theatre with comfy stadium-style seating.

The Buena Vista Theater is somewhat smaller but equally enticing; this is where most of the Disney movies are shown during the cruise.

Most of the public spaces are located on Decks 3, 4 and 5, and we had great appreciation for the way they seamlessly flowed from the rowdier kid-centric activities to the quiet family or adult-oriented spaces. We enjoyed pre- and post dinner music in the Promenade Lounge, a quiet, family-friendly environment, and in Studio Sea we participated in the game shows, exhibitions and karaoke. The Atrium is fairly small and aside from being a great meeting point is little used, except for the Disney character autograph signing, the Captain's cocktail party and Disney pin trading.

There are two large shops on board Magic, located all the way forward just before the entrance to the Walt Disney Theater. One side has Disney memorabilia and postcards, everything from oversized Mickey hands and stuffed animals to miniature souvenirs. The other side has logo apparel and suitcases, duty-free perfumes and liquor.

Note: You can bring liquor on board Disney ships and you may use it in your stateroom, but if you buy duty-free from their shop, it is held for you until the end of the cruise.

At the very front of the ship on Deck 3 there is an entertainment complex called Beat Street, consisting of lounges, bars and cabarets that becomes adults-only after 9 p.m. Before that time these spaces are used for various activities. The cabaret lounge, Rockin' Bar D, hosts family-friendly individual performers or family dance parties early in the evening. Sessions, all the way forward, is a low-key and comfortable lounge and one of the few public spots where you can engage in quiet conversation. Diversions, also all the way forward, is the ship's sports bar, which was once located inside the faux funnel at the top of the ship.

The main Internet center is located adjacent to the Promenade Lounge and felt small and cramped. There is no Internet manager on site and the packages are streamlined: You either take the full week's all-you-can-use package at around $90 or you pay 75 cents per minute. There is no wireless accessibility. The satellite service seemed very slow and the per-minute charges really racked up, so if you plan on accessing e-mail more than three times, the package is a better bet.

In the adult section of the pool deck there is a new coffee house, Cove Cafe, serving specialty coffees and bar drinks; Cove Cafe also has a small Internet section. This was a favorite, another spot that was conducive to quiet pursuits, and the closest thing to a library on board the ship. Comfortable sofas and loungers, little cafe tables and chairs are scattered around the smallish room which looks out onto the adult pool and the port side of Deck 9. Racks of books, magazines and newspapers separate the seating areas. It's an oasis of cool and quiet in the middle of all of the pool deck activities.

Entertainment

First of all, there is no casino on this ship, which I really thought would make me crazy. But there is so much to do and see that I honestly didn't miss it at all. There is, however, bingo for die-hards, with pretty good jackpots.

Second, those folks on Magic sure know how to throw a party. The deck parties on Magic were the most widely attended (by all age groups) of any I have ever seen and no one quit until the lights were out. The Pirates in the Caribbean Party, a new theme for Magic, was the highlight of the cruise, with every guest wearing a red bandanna and some donning Cap'n Hook hats, eye patches, the works. Pirates rappelled down the stack, flew over the balconies, and everyone danced and danced and danced and cheered and booed and danced some more. The cruise staff uses a lot of music that involves the family, lots of line dances and dances that require hand movements like the Ketchup Song and the Macarena. It was exhausting and exhilarating at the same time; great fun.

Anyone who assumes that the entertainment on board would be all Mickey, all the time would be wrong. There are several production shows (Hercules the Muse-ical, Disney Dreams and The Golden Mickeys) that feature the Disney characters, and they are wonderful ... bright, colorful, perfectly executed and intricately elaborate. Trivia Tidbit: There are three sets of costumes on board and they're custom made of the finest fabrics two for the performer, in case something happens to one of them, and one for the understudy. Performers use some 250 wigs and 350 pairs of shoes in a weeks' worth of production shows!

There are, of course, the movies; when there is a theatrical release, guests on Magic get to see it at the same time. Otherwise there are first-run movies shown daily in the Buena Vista Theatre; PG-13 and R-17 movies are shown at later times, kid-friendly movies shown during the day.

There are the game shows, Mickeymania and Who Wants to Be a Mouseketeer in which you test your Disney knowledge. Trivia Tidbit: The first feature-length Disney movie was Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs unchanged since its release in 1937! During production some 50 dwarf names were considered, including Tubby and Burpy.

There are shuffleboard tournaments, golf chipping and putting contests, pool games during the day, shopping talks, toad races and my personal favorite, the Mickey 200 in which you create a race car out of vegetables. There's family karaoke, music trivia "game shows," a family "spy" party, dance lessons, family cabaret and talent shows, Disco Dad contests, retro dances from the 60's through the 90's ... and all of that doesn't even touch the adults-only entertainment.

Early in the evening, between dinner times, there is a short and squeaky-clean version of the cabaret show that's family friendly. After hours there's an adult version, and while it was suggestive (and really, really funny) not a single curse word was used and the performers never went out of bounds, never crossed over into indecency. It was adult humor that was acceptable to everyone. That showroom, Rockin' Bar D, is used afterwards for dance parties.

There are three adult daytime programs on Magic: The Navigator series, which allows guests to see the inner workings of the ship via lectures and video, the Disney Behind the Scenes series which gives fans a "backstage" perspective of Disney productions, and the Art of Entertaining series. The latter takes place in Studio Sea and is set up as a cooking show, in which a chef prepares a portion of a meal appetizer, salad, dessert or main course. There are overhead mirrors so you can see what's going on, and the chef explains as he goes along. There's a female announcer who offers some really cheesy commentary and engages in a coy repartee with the chef as he plays Emeril for the audience. Everyone gets a taste of the delicacy which is presented with a thimbleful of compatible wine. There is no charge for this, nor for the corollary classes on napkin folding and plate decorating, but there are also comprehensive wine tastings during the cruise for which there is a $12 charge.

Sessions, the forward lounge on Deck Three, features a pianist both during the day and in the evenings, who is occasionally accompanied by a vocalist.

Fitness and Recreation

There are three swimming pools on Disney Magic, all located on Deck 9, each with a different theme or purpose. Mickey's Pool, at the aft, is for kids only. It has a one-deck-high curly slide, is very shallow and has small toddler pools at the "ears." Goofy's Pool (and pool deck) is for families; located midship, this is where a lot of the daytime deck activities take place and is the scene of the nighttime deck parties. Quiet Cove, forward, is the adults-only area, and it is indeed quiet and peaceful. There are two large hot tubs at one end, a bar and coffee house at the other. It's large enough for laps early in the day, when it isn't yet crowded.

Deck 10 has a basketball hoop and volleyball area; there are ping pong tables on Deck 9 and shuffleboard courts on the promenade on Deck 4. Both Deck 4 and Deck 10 have full-circuit walking/jogging tracks. There is a small but well-equipped fitness center on Deck 9, adjacent to the Vista Spa; classes in Pilates and yoga are available for a small charge.

Hint: Looking for a really quiet place to rest and relax in the sun, or to stargaze in peace? All the way aft on Deck 7 is a small, little-known deck area overlooking the stern's wake. There are chaises and a couple of tables, but no bar or food service; this quiet space is accessed though an unmarked wooden door, opens at 7 a.m. and is locked again at 11 p.m.

At first glance, the adults-only Vista Spa looks like any other Steiner of London-run operation, but there are hidden delights. A room just off the spa lobby, called The Tropical Rainforest, has neither rain nor a forest, nor is it particularly tropical. Decorated in Tuscan-inspired tiles, with a fountain in the middle, it's a co-ed steam room/sauna/aromatherapy environment, with heated ceramic tile chaises and scented showers. It costs $15 per day to use it, or you can purchase a cruise-long pass for $50. If you have a treatment at the spa, you can use the room at any time during that day at no additional charge.

Spa treatments run the gamut from the usual (Swedish Massage, Aromatherapy Facials) to the unusual. Rasul, or "Mud Room," is a treatment room with sundry types of mud body masks scrubbing salts and scented oils, used on an hourly basis with no therapist involved. Though designed for three guests, it's usually only occupied by two. It's a chamber with two rooms; one for steam after applying the mud, and the other for showering the mud off. The cost for the Rasul is $68; other treatments range from $89 for a massage or facial to several hundred dollars for a day of pampering. The Personal Navigator will indicate which specials are offered; port days usually have the best deals.

It might be unusual to mention a cruise line's private island retreat in a ship review, but Disney's Castaway Cay in the Bahamas is actually an extension of the shipboard experience. (Each of the Caribbean and Bahamas cruises has a full day at Castaway Cay.) This beautifully groomed island's amazingly organized "day of leisure" offers a variety of recreational opportunities for families and adults. There is no charge to use the chaises, chairs and hammocks along the beach; tube, floatie and snorkeling equipment rentals are reasonably priced. There is an adults-only section, and the Oceaneer's Club and Oceaneer's Lab age groups have their own excursions, as do the teens. You can rent bicycles, go for a nature walk or take advantage of the motorized water sports such as jet skis, parasailing and banana boat rides offered by a concessionaire. There is also music, dancing, a barbecue lunch and family games throughout the day.

Family

Disney Magic was designed with families in mind so it's no surprise that most of the programs onboard tend to appeal to all age groups. The areas designated for kids, though, are probably the most extensive at sea, with activities for every age level.

One of the nicest things about Magic's children's programs is the way they break the age groups, so kids of similar ages are together. All families are given a pager which can be used to receive a text message about their child's whereabouts. Kids under 10 have to be signed in by a parent, but 8 and 9 year olds can sign themselves in and out with written permission from a parent. Kids 10 - 12 can sign themselves in and out; parents can be notified by text messaging only if requested.

Teens have their own special area, The Stack, which is housed in the non-functioning funnel midship. Although it is supervised by Disney personnel, no parents are allowed. Non-alcoholic drinks and coffee are served; there are a variety of activities, and the kids love it.

Oceaneer's Club is designed for the smaller children, (three to seven) with hundreds of hands-on activities and arts projects in a gigantic space that resembles a pirate ship. Computers and TV monitors are cloaked in plastic replicas of treasure chests. The Oceaneer's Lab is for kids from 8 - 12, (divide into groups of 8 - 9 and 10 - 12 year olds) offering pre-teen choices as well as computer time, games, gab-fests, pool parties and contests. My niece was particularly excited when the 10 - 12 year olds got to spend the morning in The Stack, which doesn't open for teens until 1 p.m.

Kids get their own version of the Personal Navigator and can join their groups at any time. Their involvement can include mealtimes if desired.

The programs for children from age 3 are provided at no additional charge.

Flounder's Reef, the nursery on board, takes babies as young as three months (up to 3 years of age). There is a per-hour charge of $6 for this service, but it allows parents time to be on their own, for dinner in Palo or a trip to the spa, for example.

All services are available on Castaway Cay.

Fellow passengers

Mostly families; however, there are a large number of people traveling without kids because they appreciate the quality of the ship and its offerings, and the suite-like staterooms.

Dress

Casual during the day, resort casual in the evenings with one formal night and one semi-formal night on a seven night cruise. Swimwear, shorts and jeans are not allowed in the restaurants at dinner.

Gratuity

For a seven night cruise on Disney Magic, the recommended gratuities are $25.75 for the dining room server, $18.75 for the assistant server, $6.50 for the head server, and $25.25 for the room steward. All bar drinks and deck service areas have a 15 percent gratuity added to the bill. It is suggested that one tip for room service as it's delivered.