The sleek and sassy CostaMediterranea is the second new ship to join Costa's fleet under the ownership of Carnival Corporation. The ship, like sister ship CostaAtlantica, makes a leap into the 21st century with a remarkably high percentage of verandah cabins. It's a most welcome addition, as well as a giant step forward for Costa, considering that prior ships offered a mere handful of balcony cabins, or none at all.

There's absolutely nothing ordinary or understated about CostaMediterranea's decor. At first, the eye-popping ornamentation, designed by Carnival's super-talented Joe Farcus, is overwhelming. Farcus has outdone himself with incredibly inventive designs that reinvent details from 17th and 18th-century Italian palazzi (palaces). It makes you wonder if those palaces really looked that magnifico when they, too, were brand new. There's so much to look at that, in Farcus' words, passengers enjoy "a constant discovery process on board" though you may, in fact, feel like you're cruising inside a traveling theme park. Along with the theme park fun, however, goes a degree of regimentation-particularly with the assigned, two-seating system in the dining room. All in all, there are fewer mealtime alternatives than found on other large-ship lines, such as Princess, that have adopted free-choice dining.

Where CostaMediterranea stands out from the pack is in its Italian exuberance, the hallmark of "Cruising Italian Style." The staff greets you with "buon giorno." The entertainment is full of gusto-though napkin-waving waiters dancing on the dinner tables isn't everyone's cup-of-espresso. In a nutshell, this ship is a terrific choice if you want to experience cruising with a definite European flavor, and still enjoy all the expected comforts and amenities of an American-geared mega-ship.

In winter, the ship sails to the Caribbean, round-trip from Ft. Lauderdale. Venice is the summer homeport for seven-night Eastern Mediterranean voyages.

Public rooms

Though tied together by the palazzo theme, each of the public rooms has a completely different feel. The cupid-adorned Piazza Casanova, for example, was based on a ballroom in a Venetian palace. It has a lovely fountain and good dance floor. The Asian-accented Roero Bar and Oriental Lounge were inspired by the Roero Di Guarene Palace (and look anything but Italian -- the servers wear oriental outfits, and the display cases show off artifacts from four ancient Chinese Dynasties).

The Giardino Isolabella Bar is particularly delightful. This cozy room is a veritable undersea grotto hidden away in a most unlikely location-directly beneath the three-tier Osiris Theater.

The atrium bar, Maschera d'Argento, is the hotspot for passenger profiling. It's even better for art spotting, a highlight of this ship. Three walls soar ten decks upward, creating one gigantic work of art-a fabulous array of floating, larger-than-life dancing figures. The fourth wall has three glass elevators, so as you move, the dance takes place. There are also fantastic Murano glass accents everywhere, including dozens of jellyfish wall lamps with flowing tendrils. It sounds bizarre, but it works. Best of all, you'll see something totally new every time you step into a room.

It's worth climbing the stairways, too. We loved the whimsical pottery in the cases at each landing.

Art aside, CostaMediterranea has all the usual public areas and then some. There's a real chapel (services are offered regularly) with lovely stained glass windows. A small, combination library/Internet cafe next to the Oriental Lounge has nine computer stations. Internet access costs 50 cents per minute and, as is usual on a cruise ship, can be frustratingly slow. The Grand Canal Casino sees lots of action whenever it's open. For shoppers, there are two stores selling logo wear, jewelry, watches, olive oil, pasta, duty-free cigarettes and liquor. Prices on Caribbean cruises are in US dollars. They're in Euros for European itineraries.

Caveat: Finding the public restrooms is tricky (and identifying men's from women's a challenge). A hint: Red lips are for women, mustaches are for men.

There are no self-service launderettes or ironing rooms.

Entertainment

Evening entertainment ranges from dancing to romantic piano tunes in the Piazza Casanova Bar to opera or production shows in the main theater. The final night's passenger talent show was hilarious, thanks to the backup of the ship's professional singers and dancers. The amateur talent was pretty good, too. And, just walking into the three-tiered Osiris Theater is a trip. All those pyramids and pharaohs make you think you're in Egypt. Rest assured, the motif came straight from murals decorating a Roman palace built in the 1400s.

Daytime activities consist mainly of group games and fitness classes.

Fitness and Recreation

The ship has three separate pool areas on Deck 9. The two central pools each have one, usually busy, whirlpool. One pool has a retractable magrodome roof for use in all kinds of weather. The smaller Apollo pool, all the way aft, is away from the crowds and has a bar and a third whirlpool. There is a neat waterslide up top on Deck 11, but it was only open a couple of hours during our entire cruise.

CostaMediterranea's fitness facility and spa are combined on two decks. The Olympia Gym has an impressive array of state-of-the-art workout machines. They work two ways. You can establish your settings manually -- or sign up for a "key card" (and fitness consultation for an extra charge of $20); the key is pre-set so you are computer-guided throughout your workouts.

The area is tiered, so everyone has a sea view. Fun features include a forward-view whirlpool and separate men's and women's steam rooms, saunas and shower cabinets with multiple heads. The Ischia Spa, operated by Steiner, offers the usual menu of treatments such as Swedish massage ($99 for 50 minutes).

There is a small jogging track on the top deck above the gym, along with a netted basketball/volleyball area.

Caveat: Some fitness classes-yoga, Pilates, kickboxing-have a $10 fee per session.

Family

Costa's children's facilities are known as the "Squok Club," the name of a cute, friendly shark. Kid's activities are available year-round on both European and Caribbean itineraries. Offerings vary between the two regions, with programs on Caribbean sailings geared more toward Americans.

Depending on the number of children and teens on board, activities in the Caribbean are aimed at three age groups: Mini for 3-6 year olds, Maxi for 7-12 and Teen for 13-17. There are four full-time youth counselors (more for holiday trips). The two formal nights are "Parents Nights Out," and kids are treated to a buffet or pizza party while parents dine on their own. There is no extra charge.

Group baby-sitting is available for kids ages 3 (as long as they're beyond diapers) and up. It is offered by advance request and costs $10 per hour.

Fellow passengers

On Caribbean sailings, Americans are in the majority. Our cruise was roughly one-third European with passengers mainly from Italy, France and England.

During CostaMediterranea's European season, the situation is reversed with primarily European passengers and five to 20 percent Americans. Americans will get a real European experience on board.

Announcements and daily newsletters are offered in a variety of languages -- a mixed blessing during the ritual emergency drill and on other occasions when the broadcasts continue from one language to the next.

Dress

On formal evenings, women wear everything from party dresses to glittery gala gowns. Men generally opt for dark suits rather than tuxedos, though Costa has a convenient tux rental package. There are two formal nights on a seven-night cruise. Other nights in the Caribbean are casual, the ultimate in casual being the last night's Roman Bacchanal when the crew hands out bed sheets to be worn as togas. I was surprised to see that only half the passengers participated. A number of past Costa passengers went all out, bringing their toga gear from home.

Gratuity

Costa's guidelines suggest $3 each for the cabin steward and waiter, $1.50 for the assistant waiter and $1 for the head waiter/maitre'd. All tips are per person, per day and are automatically billed to your account unless you ask Guest Relations to alter the amount. Cocktails and wine have an immediate 15 percent gratuity added during Caribbean cruises and a 10 percent gratuity on European voyages. Spa and beauty salon services also have a 15 percent tip added "for your convenience."