Dining

The 1,300-seat, two-deck Empire dining room is done up in Napoleonic splendor, the ceiling domes painted with murals and hung with crystal chandeliers. Even the large portholes are trimmed in gold and the grand circular staircase decorated with a sculpture of Napoleon at his coronation. Flanking the entrances are pilasters in the form of female statues. You'll either love it or find it over the top (it grew on us). Two dinner seatings are featured. There are tables for two, four and six, and fewer than usual for eight or more (intimacy was obviously the goal here). The food was good to excellent (try the duck and on Alaska cruises go for the fresh salmon) and service was friendly, although not necessarily sharp. Suggestion: Get a seat near the glass rail on the second tier and you can spy on your fellow passengers below. Breakfast and lunch are also served in the dining room for those who want waiter service (if ribs are on the menu go for it -- they're yummy).

The reservations-only, 156-seat Nouveau Supper Club, at the top of the ship, features aged USDA prime beef including a 14-ounce New York strip, an 18-ounce classic porterhouse, an 18-ounce prime rib and a 9-ounce filet mignon, plus other dishes, for a service fee of $30 per person. The service and experience are fantastic (although the space feels a tad cavernous for such an intimate experience) and couples who choose can hit the dance floor to the music performed by a live duo. For another $29 you can even get an order of caviar. Expect dinner here to be your nighttime entertainment (it takes several luxurious hours).

The two-level La Playa Grill is a casual alternative for buffet-style breakfasts and lunches. The international food station at lunch features a different cuisine each day including Japanese and Indian and there's also a daily deli station and rotisserie; breakfast includes a made-to-order omelet station. At night, the offering is a no-fee Seaview Bistro, perfect for those who want a quick bite without the formality of the dining room. The pizzeria is open 24 hours a day (and the Caesar salad here is excellent). For late-night munchies there is the midnight buffet, and complimentary 24-hour room service is also available (from a limited menu).