Ship Highlights

• Three pools, six whirlpools, and 115-foot-long water slide
• 12,000-square-foot Nautica Spa
• Majestic Casino with hundreds of slot machines
• Two-story Normandie Showroom with Vegas-style revues
• Cafe Isle de France, a specialty coffee shop
• Camp Carnival for kids with computer lab and arts-and-crafts center
• High-energy Leonardo dance club
• Sing-along piano bar
• Shopping gallery
• Formal Destiny dining room

Overview

When Carnival's Paradise, the eighth and last of the cruise line's very successful Fantasy class of ships, was in the planning stages, it was decided it would be distinctive in one way: The ship would feature an entirely non-smoking environment. Indeed, Carnival was so serious about its commitment to a smoke-free ship that the cruise line even extracted promises from its Finnish shipyard that workers would never light up during the building process (a daunting request). And when Paradise debuted in 1998, its exterior was dominated by a gigantic non-smoking icon firmly affixed to its forward bulkhead above the bridge. The ship was a smash success, attracting grateful passengers who flocked to its alternating Eastern and Western Caribbean voyages out of Miami.

But though roughly 25 percent of Americans smoke, after six years of these weekly voyages, even its stalwart non-smoking clientele were getting weary of the same routes. The policy was prohibitive in attracting a wider audience -- especially the group and meeting business -- and so this year Carnival decided to abandon Paradise's non-smoking specialty and redeploy the ship to California. (Why, we wondered, didn't Carnival at least experiment with a non-smoking environment in California, where the ratio of smokers to non-smokers is one in seven?)

The ship is still the most restrictive in the Carnival fleet, with smoking prohibited in the dining areas, main show lounge, aft cabaret lounge, library, the Rex Dance Club, the Leonardo Lounge and along the Promenade.

The abandoning of the no-smoking policy means that Paradise is a completely "new" ship to many of the passengers who will sail it. And its new assignment fits in with Carnival's strategy for fellow Fantasy-class ships. Seven of these vessels, which include Fantasy, Ecstasy, Sensation, Fascination, Imagination and Inspiration, as well as Paradise, are tapping into the short-cruise market -- the fastest-growing segment of the industry -- from various homeports around the United States (only Elation will continue with a seven-night schedule).

Fantasy-class ships are the workhorses of Carnival's fleet, holding 2,054 passengers in a mid-sized 70,367-ton ship with few balcony staterooms (and a distinctive indoor promenade) -- and Paradise is no exception. The ship now sails three- and four-night cruises from its new home in Long Beach, California (replacing Ecstacy, which was transferred to Galveston).

The weekend cruise that we sailed was filled to capacity, and this was only three weeks after the route commenced. There were several large groups, and more smokers than we thought would be onboard. There were also hundreds of children (it was a holiday weekend), many of whom could have used more adult supervision, and several rowdy, rude young adults who overindulged in alcohol and delighted in wreaking havoc for both the crew and other guests.

Still, Paradise remains a beautiful ship, spiffy-clean, easy to navigate, and filled with the attributes -- tons of activities, great food, Camp Carnival for kids, wonderful pools and sundecks, first-rate entertainment -- that draws guests to Carnival again and again.

Public rooms

Joe Farcus, Carnival's long-time designer, chose "Ships of the World" as the theme for Paradise. He was feeling sentimental about this being the last of the Fantasy line, so he infused the public spaces with nostalgia, too, hence rooms like the Normandie Lounge, the Queen Mary Lounge, the America Bar and the Rotterdam Lounge. He tipped his hat to his employer by naming the indoor walkway the Carnival Boulevard and the two dining rooms, Destiny and Ecstasy, for Carnival ships.

The six-deck high atrium is cozy and comfortable, with Italian floral blown-glass panels and large replicas of enameled Faberge eggs on pillars. The turquoise eggs, about a foot tall, are lighted from within and are found in the elevator lobbies throughout the ship, adding a further touch of nostalgic elegance.

One of the most interesting spots on board is the Blue Riband Library, filled with memorabilia from ocean liners of the past. The Blue Riband was a symbol, in the 1800's and the early 1900's, of the fastest ship at sea and could only be flown by one ship at a time, so as each new ship was built, the Riband changed hands. The library itself is a charming room, a lovely place to sit quietly or to meet with friends -- though, consistent with other Carnival ships, the book selection is minimal and the glass cases remained locked throughout our cruise.

The ship's lounges and bars really distinguish the Paradise, though, with enough active and festive places to enjoy group conviviality and enough quiet spaces to enjoy conversation. The America Bar, with blown-glass Stars and Stripes, is the ship's piano bar, which gets loud and chummy later in the evening but is a great pre-dinner meeting spot for those dining in the Ecstasy dining room. The Rotterdam Bar tends to be a quiet pre- and post-dining spot for wine before and liqueurs after dining in the Destiny restaurant. The African themed Rex disco stays open until the wee hours, and its lion-head symbol's eyes flash with the beat.

The window banquettes and seats along Carnival Boulevard allow guests to sit quietly and watch the goings-on without participating, or to enjoy a coffee and pastry from the Ile de France Cafe. The United States Bar, located in the promenade just outside the casino, has a funny little stage behind it and up high, in which a lone country-western singer serenades with his guitar, looking as though he will topple off at the next swell.

Our favorite is the Paradise Bar, located in the atrium, with its light filtering through the glass panels above. A classical trio plays in the evenings, and a glass of wine here, with the strains of Mozart or Vivaldi and the rosy glow of the setting sun is a perfect adjunct to a busy day and the promise of an active evening.

The ship's Internet center is located in the atrium, adjacent to the Paradise Bar. There are several stations on high counters with barstool-like chairs. Although the ship is equipped for wireless access, the cost of using the ship's computers rather than your own laptop is considerably less. Packages range from 25 cents a minute to 75 cents with no pre-purchased options; the lowest cost for wi-fi is 40 cents per minute with a $100 package.

Activities

Entertainment

Carnival's entertainment options are always topnotch, and Paradise is no exception. We anticipated fewer quality offerings on a three-night cruise, but were proven wrong. The production shows in the main theater, Normandie Lounge, were great fun and professionally presented. After-hours one can find music of one sort or another in each of the 10 lounges and bars on Paradise. There's a full casino with slots and 12 tables, all of which were going strong during the day at sea and in the evenings. The American Bar's sing-along piano was great fun, as was the hokey karaoke in the Queen Mary Lounge, located aft along the Promenade. The Rex Disco goes all night with beat-heavy music and carefree revelers. There's a teen disco, too, Spirals, but it didn't seem crowded when we peeked in.

The comedy show is presented twice: The earlier one is G-rated for families; the midnight show is definitely adults-only fare.

Our favorite of all was the exquisite classical trio, playing each evening in the atrium and setting the mood for the night ahead.

Daytime activities are equally extensive, with the usual Carnival "Fun Ship" offerings around the Lido pool (including, of course, the Hairy Chest Contest) and games, trivia contests, bingo and art auctions in venues all over the ship. There is never, ever a dull moment on Paradise.

When the sun meets the sea, you determine your Destiny. Whether you're indulging in our exceptional array of Lounges and Nightclubs, being dazzled by our Las Vegas Style Shows, or bringing in the new day with our Live Entertainment. We at Carnival guarantee your cruise will be worth your wild. Once the sun goes down the fun is just beginning with nonstop entertainment. There is something for everyone.

• The Normandie Theatre for shows that rival Las Vegas
• America Bar - piano bar
• Majestic Casino, one of the largest afloat
• Unites States Bar - piano bar
• The Leonardo Dance Club
• Queen Mary Lounge - smaller show lounge
• Rex Dance Club - jungle-like art deco
• Rotterdam Bar
• The Criterion Lounge
• Paradise Bar - lobby bar
• Blue Riband Library
• Carnival Blvd.
• Cafe Ile de France

Fitness and Recreation

Being inside Paradise's extensive gym facility feels as though you have fallen into a box of Good & Plenty candy. The large room, located forward and overlooking the ship's bow, has a pink and black color scheme that is neither invigorating nor restful. The equipment is extensive and modern, though, and we really like the saltwater whirlpool accessible from both the men's and women's locker rooms.

The Nautica Spa and salon services are run by Steiner's of London and offer a wide array of treatments from massages to facials to the best bargain at sea -- the Frangipani Scalp and Shoulder massage, 25 minutes for $26. Other treatments include body wraps, salt-scrubs and sports massages in smallish medicinal-looking treatment rooms.

There are two adult pools, each with two hot tubs; the Lido pool has Carnival's signature twisty slide and is the more active and loud of the two. The aft pool on Deck 11, though, is quiet and rarely crowded, with a gigantic deck apron for sunning. The children's pool is located aft on Deck Nine, is accessed through the Queen Mary Lounge, and is so hidden that it's rarely used at all.

There's a jogging track on Deck 12, basketball hoop, golf cage and Ping-Pong tables. Several classes and group workouts are offered during the day in the gym; Pilates and yoga are offered for a small extra fee.

Hint: Topless sunbathing is allowed at the base of the stack, located aft and accessed via a stairway from Deck 11. No cameras are allowed, including cell phone cameras, and security will confiscate them if they are found.

Family

Carnival's Fun Ships are made for families, with activities that encompass all age groups. There are games and contests for everyone to enjoy together, and there is Camp Carnival, located in the Children's World complex at the top of the atrium. Offered free of charge from 9 a.m. until 10 p.m, the three-room facility has arts and crafts, computer stations, walls with multiple monitors for movies and cartoons, a separate section for toddlers and babies, and well-trained staff supervising the children.

There is no "name" for each age group a la Disney's program; they are broken out into age-appropriate groups depending on how many take advantage of the program. A highlight is Camp Carnival's dining option, which allows parents to dine without the kids and the kids to dine with their playgroup.

One area where Carnival is rather unique among family-oriented cruise lines is that it accepts toddlers, from age two, into the program -- even if they aren't toilet trained (and staffers will change diapers).

Carnival also offers babysitting for children under two at an additional charge (plan to pay about $6 per hour). There is a teen program as well, which features pool parties and special excursions.

Fellow passengers

The weekend passengers are onboard to party and tend to be a rowdy lot; there are more children on the weekend trips as well. The four-day trips are slightly more serene. The ship appeals to people of all ages who know that they are receiving exceptional value for an all-inclusive weekend or mid-week getaway.

Dress

Casual during the day, resort casual in the evenings, with one formal night per cruise. No shorts, swim suits or tank tops allowed in the restaurants in the evenings.

Gratuity

Standard gratuities of $10 per night per passenger are charged to your shipboard account (and can be adjusted); the service personnel, especially the room stewards and stewardesses, work extra hard to turn the cabins for two cruises per week and deserve any extra they receive. Tipping for room service at delivery is expected (and appreciated) by the service staff.